Seoul was never even on the radar. The original plan for our vacation getaway had been Mexico or The Dominican Republic. When reports of the various hurricanes heading that way started to filter in, we dumped that idea. On the lookout for another destination, our girls who are completely obsessed with Korean pop, proposed South Korea.
An 11 hour flight to a country that I had no knowledge of, or any previous desire to visit, made me a bit ‘meh’ about the whole plan. However, as I had insisted on going to Cape Town on our last holiday, I felt it was only fair that I let someone else in the family pick out the destination. My only condition was that the entire holiday wouldn’t be spent tracking these pop stars and their whereabouts. We had to get our bit of culture and tourism in too. The girls readily agreed and off we went.
As in any new country, the first day was spent acclimatising and finding our bearings. We explored the area around the hotel and I was amazed to see the contrast of the plush, high end mall our hotel was a part of, coexisting in complete harmony with the hustle and bustle of the cheap street vendors and the everyday goods consumed by the locals. So much like India, I thought, except that courtesy and politeness seemed ingrained in the people.
This was something we would frequently encounter in the next few days. In Seoul, people do not wait for you to ask for help, they volunteer to help you. We travelled a lot by the local Metro and every time we were lost or confused, a good samaritan would step forward and guide us the right way. On one occasion, a gentleman even gave up his position on the train platform to accompany us to ours (20 steps and two platforms away). I was truly taken aback by the warmth, the genuineness and the thoughtfulness of the people. It was as though every South Korean felt that they were the ambassadors of their country and as guests, we were to be made to feel welcome and safe at every turn.
The Koreans are a beautiful people and not just on the inside. Everywhere I turned, I saw such gorgeous young men and women. Beautiful glowing skin, glossy thick hair and slim and fit for the most part, I could only imagine that they are a truly blessed people, genetically. My daughter informed me that genes were only a part of the equation. They take care of themselves. From their famed Korean 12 step skin care routine, to their balanced diets and the everyday fitness that they incorporated into their lives, it was no wonder that they looked as good as they did. I duly went and bought twenty Korean sheet masks in the hope that I would miraculously transform myself into a reasonably well preserved, close to middle age woman. Haha!
As a culture-vulture, I dragged the family to the museums, the palaces, the temples and the shrines. No one complained. There was too much beauty and history to absorb. It was interesting to note that their architecture does not shout. It whispers. There is a subtlety to the grandeur, a self effacement and a Zen-like refinement. As per Confucian principles, the good of the whole always takes precedence over the aggrandisement of the individual. Something that permeates the culture, the art, the people and the architecture of the land.
When the day to trail the K-pop stars dawned, I was loath to leave my historical trail for the more modern phenomenon of the Korean pop star. For those who are unaware of this recent upsurge of K-pop, be warned. You are about to be overtaken by the catchy music, the limber bodies and the entirely incomprehensible lyrics (aside of the odd English words thrown into the mix) of the experience that comprises K-pop. They are not just dominating world music charts, they have been recognised and awarded a few times too. Billboard music awards anyone?
BTS (Bangtan Boys), without doubt, is the largest band to emerge from Korea. This male septet has done sold out tours the world over and has masses of hysterical fans everywhere. In comparison, Black Pink, the girl band, is smaller and not that well known. As each of my girls favoured one or the other, we let them set the itinerary for the day.
We started with Black Pink. First port of call was YG entertainment. This is where the Black Pink group was assembled and trained. As far as I was concerned, it was just another building with a guard posted outside. My daughters insisted on getting their photos taken outside. Oh well. What was more interesting was the group of protestors holding up placards and shouting. While my girls were having their fan-girl moment, I sidled up to the group, trying to establish what the protest was about. Turns out, it was the inhabitants of the building protesting against the chairman of YG entertainment and his complete disregard of the inconvenience his vehicles and his entourage causes to the day-to-day living of the residents. Well, some things are the same the world over. Wealth and power rarely consider anyone else’s requirements but their own.
We then Metroed over to the Black Pink house. This is where the girl band had spent the formative group years, going from strangers to friends to bandmates. Manufactured sisterhood in the name of profit. A leafy entrance with a pretty, pink door. That was it. Once again, lots of photos taken and we moved on.
My mood, at this point, was of weary resignation. Having never been a groupie or a fan-girl, I could not relate to the sentiments of my daughters who idolised these manufactured pop bands, insisting on buying their merchandise, filling the coffers of callous, dispassionate media companies. Maybe that was just my age and cynicism. Ho-hum!
Having had a hearty breakfast, we trooped over to the next stop, not yet feeling any hunger pangs, but definitely getting quite parched from all the running around. Little did I know that for next hour and a half we would be going around in circles. Min’s café where BTS (that big boy band) spent a lot of their pre-fame years was nearly impossible to locate. We had a map and some vague directions from the bemused concierge at the hotel. Having no GPS, we fruitlessly chased our own tails. I remember growling to my husband, “This better be worth it!” Well, it was and it wasn’t.
Tucked into an alley way, this humble little café was an ode to BTS. When we finally stumbled upon it, I did wonder what the hoopla was about. Owned by an elderly couple there were all sorts of drinks on the menu – from milkshakes to coffees and teas of various descriptions. We had obviously found ourselves in BTS mecca, as plenty of other young fans were busy clicking photos inside. The walls were lined with posters and album covers, all signed by BTS. Wearily I ordered my apple cinnamon tea, letting the girls do their thing. One sip and I was transformed. Never mind K-pop, the drinks here were to die for! Every warming sip filled my tired, cold bones with heat and energy.
On to Gangnam District then! Remember the song ‘Gangnam style’ by Psy? The catchy lyrics, the energetic, somewhat mad dance? Well, it was all filmed in and around this area. Compared to Beverly Hills in California, the wealth and the upscale living of the area is it’s main call to fame. Aside of that is the K star road. Lined with Gangnamdols – a composite of ‘Gangnam’, ‘idol’ and ‘doll’, this road has many large ‘dolls’ dedicated to various Korean entertainment celebrities.
All photos duly taken, with a few pit stops at a bakery that a BTS member ordered a cake from (!!), and a side alley with a plaque saying Big Hit entertainment, the record company managing BTS, we finally headed back to the hotel.
The girls were happy, the parents tired. The next day would be spent in buying paraphernalia related to K-pop. I bit my tongue as it was their pocket money, and if they chose to spend it on merchandise (much cheaper here than on Amazon, I was assured), then so be it.
What did I learn from this little exercise of pounding the pavements and hounding at the heels of K-pop? That there is no stopping change. History, culture and tradition, revered as they are in Korea, are just one half of the puzzle. The other half comprises of rapid innovation, of popularity, of youth and of mass marketing.
Adapting to the new, while not forgetting the old, is perhaps the wisest course forward.
